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Enjoying Seafood in Kuala Perlis
by Farah 'Fairy' Mahdzan (9-Sep-2003) | Readers Say

If you're a squeamish sort of person, you're probably irking at the sight of that ketam (crab) up there. If you're a seafood lover, however, then you're probably daydreaming about how absolutely delicious the shelled fellow would taste cooked in your most favorite style of gravy. If you're the latter, then selamat datang to Kuala Perlis!

Certainly, one of the things I most look forward to when I make a trip back to my Dad's home state of Perlis is savoring all the mouth-watering and easily available seafood. Not only is seafood fresh in Perlis, but it is relatively cheaper than it is in the capital city.

When the locals go out to eat seafood, they'd usually refer to the outing as pergi makan ikan bakar ("go eat barbequed fish") or in true Northern Malaysian dialect, pi makan ikan bakaq! The term "ikan bakaq" just serves as a generic term to include all types of cooked seafood, so if we say we want to go out to eat ikan bakaq, we were implying on indulging in some other type of seafood too. After all there are so many types to choose from; surely we aren't going to limit ourselves to just fish!

We have a favorite ikan bakar place we frequent in Kuala Perlis: Lynda Ikan Bakar & Makanan Laut. My Dad, the prideful Perlis man that he is, enjoys taking his kids and grandkids to eat there. Mention ikan bakar for dinner and watch us all dart maniacally into the car!


Select Your Seafood!

Half the fun of eating seafood is selecting the exact critters that you want seasoned, cooked, fried, barbequed, grilled, or sautéed, and served to you.

A designated person at your favorite seafood gerai (stall) will usually assist you in physically picking up the fish or group of prawns that you so desire.

The chosen seafood will be weighed on a scale to determine how much your dinner will cost in the end. It is for this exercise that seafood gains its notorious reputation for being pricey. In addition, seafood prices fluctuate depending on fishing season.

Here you see our guy fearlessly holding up some slimy sotong (squids) that we chose to be deep-fried. We also picked 2 other types of seafood for dinner: a type of fish Malays call ikan jenahak (Mom says it's a type of carp fish), and udang (prawns).

(It is a nightmare to translate fish names from Bahasa Malaysia to English. I would never in a million years knew what ikan jenahak would be called in English had my mother not come to my rescue. Thanks Ma!)

After selecting all the seafood you could possibly stuff your face with, you then tell your chef exactly how you want your seafood to be cooked. What will it be, prawns in sweet and sour sauce? Squid pieces deep-fried in batter served with sweet dipping sauce? Fish cooked in curry? The choice is up to you.

Meet the makcik who was furiously cooking our fish over burning coal into succulent perfection! She gave me an appreciative grin and a salute with her charred fan after I took her picture.


Ketam

My brother-in-law had his kids screaming in fright when he picked up a lifeless ketam with his bare hand and started jingling the legs around like a puppet on strings. Hehe, children are so easy to scare.

Crabs here are usually cooked and served in gulai, a curry-like type of gravy that is a little spicy and yellow in color. The crab shells will turn orange in color when you cook them for some reason. And a good thing too; blue crabs don't look too appetizing swimming in spicy yellow gravy!

Crab meat is white in color and tastes wonderful when cooked right. Some people will also find sucking the juices and pieces of meat out of the crab legs to be a fulfilling task indeed. It's gooooooood.


Kerang

Another set of seafood that didn't quite make our cut: kerang or cockle shells. I'm not too fond of them, but some people will eat them by the kilo. The mussel inside the cockle shell is sometimes used in a dish called char kuey teow which is a flat noodle dish that's stir-fried with oyster sauce, bean sprouts and loads of other stuff.


Sate

While we were waiting for our grilled fish, our order of sate ayam came first. These little bits of barbequed skewered meat are a popular dish amongst Malaysians (Indonesians and other Asians too). The kids were certainly having a ball with it.

The typical Malaysian sate is sweetly seasoned, and is usually eaten after dipping it into a type of semi-spicy peanut sauce. There are sate condiments too like pulut (compressed rice) and timun (cucumber slices).


Finally our reasons for coming to Kuala Perlis had arrived!

Ikan Bakaq!

The grilled fish looked so enticing that in a blink of an eye everyone had a generous piece of it on their plates! Eating this deliciously seasoned grilled ikan jenahak with plain white rice and its specially-prepared spicy and sour sauce was just heavenly. Of course everything just tastes better when you eat it with your hands, which we all did!

Take caution however if you're eating this type of fish, as God was generous in giving this fish bones, and I mean plenty of 'em! I took extra care in picking out the bones before enjoying the fish. Having a fish bone stuck in your throat isn't exactly a warm bedtime story - it's seafood hell!


Udang

Right after our grilled fish, this steaming plate of udang masak masam manis (prawns cooked in sour and sweet sauce) finally made it to our table. My, my, big fat giant juicy prawns! Are you drooling yet?

I understand that some people have allergic reactions towards some seafood, including prawns. My sister was sensitive to prawns, so she stayed clear of it. The rest of us were silently rejoicing as it meant more prawns for us!

By the time our last seafood dish came - a plate of deep-fried sotong covered in flour batter - my right hand was no longer clean and free hand to handle my camera, so you're just going to have to imagine the scrumptious squid sensation that I was to indulge in! :)

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WHAT READERS SAY ABOUT Enjoying Seafood in Kuala Perlis:
#32. eh..selain myindo ni, mana lagi nk contact farah egh?
Posted by n a i m on 18-Mar-2009, 16:45 MYT

#31. hahaha.....best kat perelis ni?????? nothing special pun!!!!!!! tapi kalo korang rasa best, mai la noh
Posted by suhaida on 15-Nov-2006, 20:18 MYT

#30. Hello, Came across your site when I was researching Indonesia. Would you be interested in reviewing our book: The Mystical World of Java by Prio Hartono? You can download the book (under the books section) on our website.
Thank you,
Best Regards, Rachman/Undiscovered Worlds Press
Posted by Rachman - Website   on 2-Dec-2004, 02:42 MYT

#29. It's not faaaaaaairr!! Why did I read this article when I'm fasting?!?! Now I'm drooling, and can't stop thinking about buka puasa!!!
Posted by owle on 6-Oct-2003, 12:17 MYT

#28. Maz, get your behind back in Malaysia dulu, then we can talk about visiting seafood places.

Raf, sorry ah.. it's ironic you know, Singapore's an island nation yet you say seafood is scarcely available there. Apa daa...
Posted by Fairy on 14-Sep-2003, 18:28 MYT

#27. I juz had my seafood meal last Monday at Jimbaran, Bali. Kalo in S'pore rasanya tak mampu nak mkn cos harganya mahal banget.. Wonder why Indonesians call ketam kepiting.. Anyone knows where to find nice seafood rstnt in JB??
Posted by kurtney on 12-Sep-2003, 23:13 MYT

#26. ketam! ketam! ketam! damn, can we switch to ur normal kind of articles???? not seafood pleaseee sini susah giler nak cari, jauh nak menapak and not to say abt the price as well. (another gd reason why spore not for moi hahahaha)
Posted by Rafthah on 12-Sep-2003, 20:17 MYT

#25. i've been at Lynda's! how i love kerang rebus & ikan bakar...miss those so much! got funny memories there, i stumbled and fell right in front of the restaurant, viewed by many smiling faces. wet floor!
anyhow, good food, good price justified my embarassment.
jom pi sana nak?
Posted by maz on 11-Sep-2003, 23:45 MYT

#24. Di Jakarta: Muara Karang, Bali: Jimbaran, Tokyo: Tsukiji, but takai neee...
Posted by Bagas on 11-Sep-2003, 13:25 MYT

#23. bigg, if I had added more pictures, *I* would have passed out first!

I seem to have driven people bonkers with this seafood article, everything from people pining for their hometown food and wanting to rush back there in a jiffy, to folks drooling on their keyboard yearning for some good ol' yummy seafood for lunch. This article is a SUCCESS!
Posted by Fairy on 11-Sep-2003, 11:46 MYT

#22. man..im gonna have seafood for lunch!

you know, if you were to add more pictures, i'd faint infront of my pc.
Posted by bigg - Website   on 11-Sep-2003, 11:39 MYT

#21. MK: Umbai kat melaka, (ikut jalan lama utk pegi Muar)..there's another ikan bakar place also in melaka called Serkam. Serkam tu dekat dengan jeti nak pegi Pulau Besar..

urgh! now me dah mula rasa homesick balik!! even though sini dekat dengan laut, tp susah nak carik fresh seafood, and mahal some more!! terpaksa beli kat supermarket n masak sendiri je la..uhuk uhuk!
Posted by nurull on 10-Sep-2003, 22:25 MYT

#20. Behold the powers of writing and photography.
Posted by Fairy on 10-Sep-2003, 20:44 MYT

#19. Faiiiiii......I've made up my mind....
Disebabkan i dah tatahan tgk gambaq ikan bakaq tu....i think i'm going back home to my kampung sometimes next week....hehehe!!
Posted by izaown on 10-Sep-2003, 19:59 MYT

#18. hehe..ok
tadi aku baru sadar kalo di artikelnya bilang sotong itu sama squid.
Posted by jamal on 10-Sep-2003, 19:05 MYT

#17. Jamal, sotong itu CUMI CUMI dalam Bahasa Indonesia.
Posted by Fairy on 10-Sep-2003, 17:04 MYT

#16. sotong itu apaan ya?
Posted by jamal on 10-Sep-2003, 16:55 MYT

#15. Ketam? Udang ? Mmm.. sedapnya.
Ada resepi seafood tak ?
Biskut Oreo goreng hari tu rasa pelik lah.
Posted by basrie - Website   on 10-Sep-2003, 16:12 MYT

#14. Hmm Umbai... I've heard so much about it yet I have no idea where is it. Anyone?
Posted by MK84 on 10-Sep-2003, 15:41 MYT

#13. Adhe, ke Pluit aja sono, huhu. Kan rupiah lebih murah ketimbang ringgit so I bet you get more seafood there cheaper! Tapi enak ya seafood yummm... kasian deh siapa yang allergic.

Iza, that is my mission, to make you all drool like mad everytime you come to my website Bestnye boleh dapat diskaun kat the gerai makan. I dunno lah why my parents like the Lynda stall so much sampai takmo try stall lain. Lantak ah I ikut jer. Sedap!
Posted by Fairy on 10-Sep-2003, 14:21 MYT

#12. Fai...u make me so hungggggrrrryyyyyy!! !
Anyway iza selalu pegi the 1st gerai since she was related to my dad...so can always get diskaun maa!!!
Posted by izaown on 10-Sep-2003, 14:12 MYT

#11. Waahh... kalo di Jkt juga ada tuh... rame beneeerr... namanya lupa, pokoknya di Jakarta Utara.. deket2 pluit... kita bisa milih seafoodnya yg bujugile variatif banget.. antara yg murah sampe yg mahalnya ngga ketulungan hehehehe...

Btw, gw suka ikan bawal dan tiram hijau hehehehe *kali aj Fai mo ngirim *
Posted by Adh3 - Website   on 10-Sep-2003, 13:12 MYT

#10. Mba Fay !!
Itu enag sekalii !~!
Pa lagi pake cecah belacan ngan chili padi+air limau masam !!
Walaw ..
Best nyerrr ...


Posted by Decky - Website   on 10-Sep-2003, 10:40 MYT

#9. Huhuhu, Dog, lo bayangin aja waktu gw nulis ini artikel. Ngiler bowwwww...!
Posted by Fairy on 10-Sep-2003, 10:27 MYT

#8. LAPAAAAAAAAAARRRRRRR !!!!!!!! huhuhuhuhu
Posted by Imprecated Dog - Website   on 10-Sep-2003, 10:26 MYT

#7. MK, the asam was in a separate bowl somewhere. *Slurp*

Aiie, I don't go to Penang these days, in fact haven't been there for quite some time though we always bypass it. Dulu masa kecik2 duduk "Aloq Setaq" selalu jugak jalan2 pi Penang. So next time I pi Penang boleh lah you bawak keluar makan. Perlis seafood cheap oso what.
Posted by Fairy on 10-Sep-2003, 10:15 MYT

#6. you just remind me of ikan bakar and nasi lemak of umbai, melaka. hmm nyum nyum...aisehhh teringin la plak !! takpe2..i'm going to mlk this sunday....sesapa nak ikut? hehehe
Posted by Siryn on 10-Sep-2003, 10:09 MYT

#5. i'm a ketam freak..tapi fairy kalau dtg penang pun you'll enjoy the same kind of dishes at the same price (cheaper!)Teluk tempoyak,teluk kumbar,sungai batu and bukit tambun(chinese seafood) are the places to go!..
Posted by aiie on 10-Sep-2003, 09:44 MYT

#4. MMmmmmmmm..... ikan jenahak bakar..... *drool*
Posted by MK84 on 10-Sep-2003, 02:58 MYT

#3. Just remembered something. No asam?
Posted by MK84 on 10-Sep-2003, 02:58 MYT

#2. Mari mari! Siapa takut hehe. Kena makan kat Peghlih lah cek kalau nak sedap and mughah macam nehhhh..
Posted by Fairy on 10-Sep-2003, 01:22 MYT

#1. This is so unfair!! I'm really homesick now! Haha! Nasib baik I balik for raya. Farah, jom, kita pergi makan ikan bakaq with me, ya?
Posted by Noreen on 10-Sep-2003, 01:20 MYT

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